GLASS
BALUSTRADE

There are several post types to choose from, each suited to different applications and aesthetics. Round posts give you that classic, clean look and are the most popular choice for residential installations. They’re available in various diameters, typically 42.4mm or 48.3mm for standard applications.

Square posts offer a more contemporary, architectural appearance and work particularly well in modern commercial settings. They provide slightly more surface area for glass clamping, which can be useful for larger glass panels.

Adjustable posts are brilliant when you’re dealing with uneven surfaces or sloped installations. They let you get everything perfectly level without having to cut posts to different lengths on site.

End posts and middle posts serve different structural purposes – end posts typically need beefier fixings because they’re taking loads from one direction, while middle posts distribute loads between glass panels on both sides.

Post spacing depends on your glass size, wind exposure, and local building requirements. For most residential applications, posts every 1.5 to 2 metres work well with standard 10-12mm toughened glass.

If you’re in a high wind area or using taller glass panels, you might need closer spacing – sometimes down to 1.2 metres between posts. Commercial installations often require closer spacing too, especially in public areas where building control is more stringent.

The key is balancing structural requirements with aesthetics. Wider spacing gives you better views but puts more stress on each post and the glass panels. Your structural engineer can run the calculations, but as a rule of thumb, don’t exceed 2 metres without checking the wind loads properly.

Corner posts need special consideration because they’re supporting glass from two directions. They often need beefier fixings or closer spacing to the adjacent posts.

Structural posts are doing the real work – they’re taking all the lateral loads from people leaning on the balustrade plus wind loads if it’s outside. These need proper structural calculations and building control approval for most installations.

The posts themselves become part of the building’s structure, so the fixings need to be designed accordingly. You’re typically looking at substantial base plates with multiple bolts, or posts that are built into the structure during construction.

Non-structural posts are more decorative – the actual structural work is done by a frame or structure behind them. You sometimes see this in commercial installations where there’s a structural frame and the posts are just holding the glass panels in place.

Most residential glass balustrade posts are structural, so they need to meet the 0.74kN/m horizontal load requirement. Don’t assume your posts are non-structural unless you’ve got clear structural drawings showing otherwise.

For most applications, 316 marine grade stainless steel is the gold standard. It handles coastal environments, urban pollution, and general weathering without any corrosion issues. Yes, it costs more than 304 grade, but it’s worth it for the longevity.

304 grade can work for internal applications or very sheltered outdoor locations, but it’s not worth the risk in most cases. Once stainless steel starts showing rust spots, it’s expensive to fix and looks terrible.

The finish matters too – brushed or satin finishes hide fingerprints and minor scratches better than polished finishes. Mirror polish looks stunning when new but shows every mark and requires constant cleaning.

For commercial installations or anywhere near the coast, 316 grade is usually specified by building control anyway. It’s one of those areas where it’s better to over-specify than have problems later.

Concrete installations use base plates with anchor bolts or chemical anchors. The base plate spreads the loads over a larger area, and the bolts transfer forces down into the concrete structure. Make sure your concrete is at least 150mm thick and in good condition.

Decking installations need to hit solid structural timber, not just deck boards. You’re typically bolting through to joists or beams underneath. Coach bolts work well, but make sure you’re using large washers to spread the loads.

Steel structures are actually the easiest – you can weld base plates directly to the steelwork or use high-tensile bolts through pre-drilled holes. The key is making sure the steel structure is designed to handle balustrade loads.

For unusual surfaces or challenging installations, adjustable base plates can save the day. They let you level everything up without major structural modifications.

Building regulations specify minimum heights, but the actual post height depends on your glass configuration. For most residential balconies and terraces, you need 1100mm minimum height to the top of the balustrade.

If you’re using glass that sits between posts, your posts might be slightly higher than the glass to accommodate the clamping system. If the glass sits in front of the posts, they can be the same height.

Commercial applications often need 1200mm or higher, especially in public areas or around stairs. Check with building control early because they sometimes have specific requirements for your location.

Post installation is more demanding than some other balustrade components because the structural requirements are critical. If you’re comfortable with structural work and have the right tools, it’s possible, but there’s less room for error.

The key skills you need are accurate measuring, drilling straight holes, and understanding structural loads. Getting post positions wrong affects the whole installation, and fixing mistakes is expensive.

Building control will want to inspect the work, and they’re often more stringent with DIY installations. You’ll need to show that your fixings and installation methods meet the structural requirements.

For peace of mind and warranty coverage, professional installation is usually worth the cost. Our approved installers know the systems inside out and can handle any complications that arise during installation.

Stainless steel posts are virtually maintenance-free when properly specified. An occasional wipe down with mild detergent removes any salt deposits or urban grime. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the surface.

Check the glass clamps annually to make sure they’re still tight. Thermal expansion and building movement can sometimes cause slight loosening, though it’s rare with quality installations.

The base fixings should be inspected periodically, especially on timber installations where seasonal movement might affect the connections. Any signs of loosening should be addressed promptly.

If you notice any rust spots appearing, it usually means the stainless steel grade wasn’t appropriate for your environment. This needs professional attention because it can spread and compromise the structural integrity.